Tag: makalu
Makalu News – Mike reaches the summit!
Mike calls at 6 am local time to say he reached the summit around 5pm last night!
It took him a great deal longer than expected and needed to stop for a rest on the descent at 7’800m once the night settled in.
When he rang this morning he was beginning his ascent down from 7’800m to base camp. We expect t0 hear a more about his gruelling venture once he has arrived at base camp, eaten and rested a little.
No news from Fred since yesterday afternoon after his ascent of the summit. He was already coming down in altitude yesterday afternoon so we imagine he rested in Camp 2 last night and will be back at base camp early this morning.
Well done guys!! What a feat!!
Makalu Summit Push – News!
At 10 am local time Fred Roux arrives at the summit of Makalu at 8’463m!
Unable to call from the summit because of extreme cold temperatures Fred calls on the way back down the mountain, at around 8’000m.
Mike and Fred left for the summit push early this morning, the 17th of May. The winds had calmed and visibility good.
Mike and Fred separated during the climb. At this stage we are awaiting news from Mike and are assuming that he too is also on his way back down the mountain.
We will update you as soon as possible!
Climb to Camp 2
We have had very strong winds on Makalu the past 3 days. Yesterday myself and Fred climbed to Camp 2 to check our tent. We found our tent still standing which was great news because all other equipment we need for the summit push is in the tent.
The climb went very well and we feel well rested and acclimatised. the only thing we need now is good weather.
Back to camp 2
The waiting continues…
Unfortunately the weather has only got worse. There has been extremely strong winds in altitude with gusts of up to 160km/hr on the summit.
Fred and Mike have been told there may be a good weather window opening up in one weeks time. They are more ready than ever to attempt the summit but for now must be patient. Because of the very strong winds they are worried that their equipment that they initially placed at camp 2 may have blown away. Tomorrow they will climb to camp 2 and check if their equipment is still there.
If all goes as planned the weather window will open up around the 16th of May.
Rest
After our acclimatisation climb to above 7’500m, Fred and myself decided to walk down to 4’800m to recuperate. Eat, drink and rest has been on our agenda for the last 3 days.
Unfortunately we received very bad news while down in lower base camp. One of our friends Yannick, lost his life on Makalu. My sincere condolences go to the family, friends and loved ones. His company in base camp and on the mountain will be sincerely missed.
The weather has turned as well and snow has been a daily event. Any attempt to the summit has been put into the back pocket for the time being. As we are we are still in the recuperation stage, it does not matter a great deal to us but deep down we would like better weather and to know we would be able to climb very soon.
Down in lower base camp we had the luxury of eating rice, potatoes, lentils, chicken, yak and pork. Fresh products are very difficult to get your hands on here and to compensate for the fresh products we had popcorn. What a treat!
Makalu is a huge mountain. It is not as steep as K2 but very exposed to wind and that makes it a very cold climb. A steep climb in-between camp 2 and 3 can be challenging in bad weather, but from camp 3 to camp 4 above 7’500m it flattens out before the last famous French corridor and then the ridge to the summit.
On our acclimatisation climb we had very strong winds at 7’600m and without supplement oxygen it becomes very difficult to breath and very cold. The wind chill factor plays an important role on our survival where we breathe only 7% oxygen. At these heights we move only 60-100m per hour and the longer we stay up there the less chance we have of getting back down.
We must never forget that the summit is only half way there.
Waiting!
Bad weather hinders any attempt for Mike and Fred to ascend Makalu’s summit at 8’643m. A potential weather window of the 8th and 9th of May has now been pushed to around the 12th and 13th of May.
With the closure of Mount Everest this year many climbers have decided to regroup at the neighbouring mountain of Makalu.
We sure have company this year! There must be another 80 people here at advanced base camp waiting to climb. Most other climbers attempt to ascend with oxygen, group together and stop and rest at camp sites. Our technique is rather different as we climb in alpine style, that is without oxygen, light and fast.
We are as ready as can be – now we just need to have the weather on our side!
Return to Makalu base camp
Mike and Fred returned to Makalu base camp today at 4’800m.
Now its the waiting game. Waiting to make the attempt of the final summit push.
The mountain is gradually becoming busier with more tents popping up by the day. Wonderful acquaintances are being made with other climbers and the excitement is shared as the climbers all wait for the next good weather window.
Makalu – our last acclimatisation climb
We had the summit just above our heads but strong winds and snow made us turn back.
Mike and Fred climbed to 7’700m and spent a very cold evening in the tent with freezing temperatures and extremely strong winds.
On the descent they passed sherpas who were coming up, fixing lines for other climbers – they assume the overload from climbers who have been forced away from this years climbing season on Everest.
Mike and Fred are now back at Advanced Base Camp at 5’700m where they will have a much deserved rest. Tomorrow they will head down to base camp at 4’800m where they will wait for the bad weather to pass.
We feel great, strong and well acclimatised. As soon as we get the next good weather window we’ll go for the summit!