{"id":11944,"date":"2019-09-08T14:42:18","date_gmt":"2019-09-08T14:42:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/?p=11944"},"modified":"2020-08-25T13:44:45","modified_gmt":"2020-08-25T13:44:45","slug":"blog-4","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/blog-4\/","title":{"rendered":"BLOG 4 – 05.09.2019 – Through the Bering Strait and into the Arctic Ocean"},"content":{"rendered":"

BLOG 4 – 05.09.2019 – Through the Bering Strait and into the Arctic Ocean<\/span><\/p>\n

Just when we thought Pangaea\u2019s issues were over and we could finally focus on our goal, the next problem came knocking on the door. As we left Teller and adjusted our course towards the Pole, our automatic piloting system gave in on us. <\/span><\/p>\n

Pangaea\u2019s never had so many unexpected issues. As always, I keep my positive attitude and don\u2019t interpret these challenges as signals that the quest we have decided to undertake, might be a bad idea. On the contrary, I take these knocks on the door as small blessings in disguise. They serve to keep us alert and to develop a problem-solving attitude from the very start.<\/span><\/p>\n

Too often, I see people give up on their dreams or even on their simple daily tasks because complications occur. \u201cThings didn\u2019t play out as I expected them to\u2026now what do I do?!\u201d It is exactly in this very instant that you have to put your head down and get to work. Because nothing in life that deserves to be achieved, will ever come easy. We\u2019ve all become so used to things coming easy. I\u2019m not sure what\u2019s the cause of this\u2026Maybe it\u2019s due to the fast paced world we live in. Today\u2019s world of abundant options has made it too simple for us to give up or look elsewhere, and in some ways even I have become a victim of this. It isn\u2019t quite fair blaming our developing world for our increasing laziness. I\u2019m all for a world of more opportunities, it certainly would have saved me quite some troubles in the past, but I\u2019m not for a world where we forget what it feels like to invest genuine effort to achieve something we truly believe in. It\u2019s not because things have become more accessible that we should take them for granted. Because at the end of the day, there is nothing more fulfilling than that feeling of achievement after having fought for something you believed was worth the sweat and tears. <\/span><\/p>\n

I realise I have just gone deeper in my reflection than initially intended. But that\u2019s what I tend to do. Minor issues remind me of the more significant problems our world is facing, or that we face as humans. All of this to say that Pangaea is putting us in yet another uncomfortable situation but I have decided to take it as a blessing rather than a curse.<\/span><\/p>\n

With my problem-solving cap now on, I check the map for the next villages we could potentially stop in to get our autopilot back on track. It looks like the next town is a bit of a detour and would thus cause further delays. So I gather the crew and we make a vote. The options are the following: Either we make this detour, stop in a coastal village called Point Hope, with hopes of resolving the issue. OR we pursue our course towards the Pole, and navigate the same way as the explorers that inspired us, that is manually, at the helm 24\/7. I immediately admit that I\u2019m not against traveling the old-school way, making a point that automatic systems always fail, but manual systems never do! This decision is out of my hands however, as on this trip, I am no longer the boat\u2019s captain my friend Bernard Stamm is. If all goes according to plan, Borge and myself will be jumping off the boat in a matter of days, whereas Bernard and the rest of the boat and media crew will still undergo another two-week\u2019s sail through the Northeast Passage before reaching the island of Svalbard in Norway. <\/span><\/p>\n

Votes in, we decide to make the detour and stop in Point Hope. After all, one day less or one day more shouldn\u2019t really impact our expedition. Or at least, I try to convince myself that it won\u2019t. By precaution, Borge informs me that he will still make the most of this premeditated stop to purchase extra expedition snacks to prepare spare portions in case we were to spend more time on the ice as initially planned (70 days). <\/span><\/p>\n

Just like the Teller, the previous town we stopped in, I am quite familiar with Point Hope. It was another one of the stops during my Arktos expedition. Cathy, the girls and a bunch of friends had flown in to meet me there in 2003. I remember spending a great time with my loved ones there. We had visited parts of Alaska very few had ever traveled to. We had been guided by a local Inuit, Steve Umaktuk, who kept on reminding us that \u201ctwo bones made one whale\u201d, and he also introduced us to the local traditions such as the Inuit music, the dancing that goes along with it and made us discover a taste and a texture many of us could have lived without, whale and seal blabber. Just the thought of these fond memories, make me look forward to revisiting the small town, and hopefully similarly to what happened with Joe Garnie, I might end up finding my old buddy Steve Umaktuk somewhere!<\/span><\/p>\n

Steve didn\u2019t recognise me at first. When I told him I was from South African and Switzerland spent quite some time here over 15 years ago, he had even told me: \u201cI have an old friend called Mike Horn who has a similar story\u201d. It didn\u2019t take him very long after that to put two and two together and to realise that it was me he was talking about. Just like Joe in Teller, Steve couldn\u2019t believe I had just showed up out of nowhere with no forewarning. He invited us in his little home for coffee. Shirt off, he was busy chopping up caribou meat on the kitchen table. He was thrilled to see me, and so was I. <\/span><\/p>\n

In the meantime, Jacek, the engineer, had solved the autopilot issue, which meant we could finally set sail again! Everyone onboard was out on deck and an excited energy was lingering around us, or maybe it was the delicious smell of freshly baked cake coming from the galley. Not that Laure needs a reason to bake cake, but today, was Sebastian\u2019s birthday. Sebas, is the latest addition to Pangaea\u2019s sailing crew. A young finance professional from South Africa, an old family friend, an intrepid who chose to celebrate his 27th birthday on a boat in the middle of nowhere. We never miss out on an opportunity to sing, smile and eat cake on this boat, and birthdays are always the perfect excuse. We made the most of having everyone out on deck to snap a quick group photo, first a civil one, which quickly turned into something more fun, truly portraying the dynamic ambience going on on Pangaea. Once our bellies were full of delicious cinnamon and apple cake, we finally made our way. A beautiful scenery bid us farewell. Rocky chunks of land fell into the open water. The cliffs shined in the afternoon sunlight. We were leaving the coast, this time for good\u2026As we leave the coast behind us, I run inside and grab a bottle of wine and tell the crew to follow me. I go back on deck and pour some wine in the water to ask for Neptune\u2019s blessing on this journey. Hopefully the God of water will appreciate this offering and send good currents our way.<\/span><\/p>\n

Life onboard is lot more lively than one would imagine. There is no time to get bored when you’re 12 people on a 30m boat sailing in uncharted parts of the globe. We all have different roles here and we all work hard to fulfil them without getting in each other\u2019s ways. It\u2019s all about finding the perfect balance. Figuring out a way to live in synch in spite of the confined space. Because of the watch system we put in place, we each end up living at different times of the day. While some sleep, others are on duty, looking out for any obstacles along our course, or system blips. Then there\u2019s Laure, in charge of the kitchen; Borge fully focused on prepping every detail of the expedition; Mike and Bernard, navigating Pangaea, with a little expedition prep when the conditions are calm; Jacek, head in the engine room; and the rest, juggle between watches and their media or deckhand tasks. <\/span><\/p>\n

I\u2019m happy with the team we\u2019ve put together. Everyone gets on well and adds something unique to the group\u2019s dynamic. With six youngsters under the age of 28, I sense a strong pull towards wanting to learn and contribute onboard, and that\u2019s something that inspires me and gives me hope for future generations. This is a one-of-a-king experience for them to live and they\u2019re all cherishing it to the fullest and learning valuable lessons along the way. I\u2019d even say the same applies to the oldies onboard. Every adventure is entirely different and special in its on way. That\u2019s what I love about exploration, no today will ever be the same as any yesterday! And as for what\u2019s in store for tomorrow? Well, that is completely up to the unknown!<\/span><\/p>\n

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Juste au moment o\u00f9 nous pensions que les probl\u00e8mes de Pangaea \u00e9taient termin\u00e9s et que nous pouvions enfin nous concentrer sur notre objectif, le probl\u00e8me suivant est venu frapper \u00e0 la porte. Alors que nous quittions Teller et ajustions notre route vers le P\u00f4le, notre syst\u00e8me de pilotage automatique a c\u00e9d\u00e9 sur nous.<\/p>\n

Pangaea n’a jamais eu autant de probl\u00e8mes inattendus. Comme toujours, je garde mon attitude positive et n’interpr\u00e8te pas ces d\u00e9fis comme des signaux que la qu\u00eate que nous avons d\u00e9cid\u00e9 d’entreprendre, pourrait \u00eatre une mauvaise id\u00e9e. Au contraire, je prends ces coups \u00e0 la porte comme de petites b\u00e9n\u00e9dictions d\u00e9guis\u00e9es. Ils nous permettent de rester vigilants et de d\u00e9velopper une attitude de r\u00e9solution de probl\u00e8mes d\u00e8s le d\u00e9but.<\/p>\n

Trop souvent, je vois des gens renoncer \u00e0 leurs r\u00eaves ou m\u00eame \u00e0 leurs simples t\u00e2ches quotidiennes parce que des complications surviennent. “Les choses ne se sont pas d\u00e9roul\u00e9es comme je m’y attendais… qu’est-ce que je fais maintenant ?!” C’est exactement \u00e0 ce moment pr\u00e9cis que vous devez baisser la t\u00eate et vous mettre au travail. Parce que rien dans la vie qui m\u00e9rite d’\u00eatre accompli, ne sera jamais facile. On s’est tellement habitu\u00e9s \u00e0 ce que les choses deviennent faciles. Je ne suis pas s\u00fbr de la cause de tout cela… C’est peut-\u00eatre d\u00fb au rythme effr\u00e9n\u00e9 du monde dans lequel nous vivons. Le monde d’aujourd’hui, o\u00f9 les options abondent, nous a rendu trop simple pour abandonner ou regarder ailleurs, et d’une certaine fa\u00e7on, je suis m\u00eame devenu une victime de cette situation. Ce n’est pas tout \u00e0 fait juste de bl\u00e2mer notre monde en d\u00e9veloppement pour notre paresse croissante. Je suis tout \u00e0 fait pour un monde de plus d’opportunit\u00e9s, cela m’aurait certainement \u00e9vit\u00e9 bien des ennuis dans le pass\u00e9, mais je ne suis pas pour un monde o\u00f9 nous oublions ce que c’est que d’investir de v\u00e9ritables efforts pour r\u00e9aliser quelque chose en quoi nous croyons vraiment. Ce n’est pas parce que les choses sont devenues plus accessibles que nous devrions les tenir pour acquises. Parce qu’en fin de compte, il n’y a rien de plus satisfaisant que ce sentiment d’accomplissement apr\u00e8s s’\u00eatre battu pour quelque chose qui, selon vous, valait la peine d’\u00eatre transpir\u00e9 et pleur\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Je me rends compte que je viens d’aller plus loin dans ma r\u00e9flexion qu’initialement pr\u00e9vu. Mais c’est ce que j’ai tendance \u00e0 faire. Les probl\u00e8mes mineurs me rappellent les probl\u00e8mes les plus importants auxquels notre monde est confront\u00e9, ou auxquels nous sommes confront\u00e9s en tant qu’\u00eatres humains. Tout cela pour dire que Pangaea nous met dans une autre situation inconfortable, mais j’ai d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de prendre cela comme une b\u00e9n\u00e9diction plut\u00f4t que comme une mal\u00e9diction.<\/p>\n

Maintenant que ma casquette de r\u00e9solution de probl\u00e8mes est en place, je v\u00e9rifie la carte des prochains villages o\u00f9 nous pourrions \u00e9ventuellement faire escale pour remettre notre pilote automatique sur les rails. Il semble que la prochaine ville est un peu un d\u00e9tour et causerait donc des retards suppl\u00e9mentaires. J’ai donc rassembl\u00e9 l’\u00e9quipe et nous avons fait un vote. Les options sont les suivantes : Soit nous faisons ce d\u00e9tour, soit nous nous arr\u00eatons dans un village c\u00f4tier appel\u00e9 Point Hope, avec l’espoir de r\u00e9soudre le probl\u00e8me. OU nous poursuivons notre route vers le p\u00f4le, et naviguons de la m\u00eame mani\u00e8re que les explorateurs qui nous ont inspir\u00e9s, c’est-\u00e0-dire manuellement, \u00e0 la barre 24h\/24 et 7j\/7. J’avoue tout de suite que je ne suis pas contre les voyages \u00e0 l’ancienne, faisant remarquer que les syst\u00e8mes automatiques \u00e9chouent toujours, mais que les syst\u00e8mes manuels ne le font jamais ! Mais cette d\u00e9cision ne d\u00e9pend pas de moi, car sur ce voyage, je ne suis plus le capitaine du bateau, mon ami Bernard Stamm. Si tout se passe comme pr\u00e9vu, Borge et moi sauterons du bateau dans quelques jours, tandis que Bernard et le reste de l’\u00e9quipage du bateau et des m\u00e9dias passeront encore deux semaines dans le passage du Nord-Est avant de rejoindre l’\u00eele de Svalbard en Norv\u00e8ge.<\/p>\n

Votes, nous d\u00e9cidons de faire le d\u00e9tour et de nous arr\u00eater \u00e0 Point Hope. Apr\u00e8s tout, un jour de moins ou un jour de plus ne devrait pas vraiment affecter notre exp\u00e9dition. Ou du moins, j’essaie de me convaincre que non. Par pr\u00e9caution, Borge m’informe qu’il profitera toujours de cet arr\u00eat pr\u00e9m\u00e9dit\u00e9 pour acheter des collations d’exp\u00e9dition suppl\u00e9mentaires pour pr\u00e9parer des portions de rechange au cas o\u00f9 nous devrions passer plus de temps sur la glace comme pr\u00e9vu initialement (70 jours).<\/p>\n

Tout comme le Teller, la ville pr\u00e9c\u00e9dente o\u00f9 nous nous sommes arr\u00eat\u00e9s, je connais bien Point Hope. C’\u00e9tait une autre \u00e9tape de mon exp\u00e9dition \u00e0 Arktos. Cathy, les filles et une bande d’amies \u00e9taient venues me rejoindre en 2003. Je me souviens avoir pass\u00e9 un bon moment avec mes proches l\u00e0-bas. Nous avions visit\u00e9 des parties de l’Alaska o\u00f9 tr\u00e8s peu de gens s’\u00e9taient jamais rendus. Nous avions \u00e9t\u00e9 guid\u00e9s par un Inuit de la r\u00e9gion, Steve Umaktuk, qui n’arr\u00eatait pas de nous rappeler que ” deux os ne faisaient qu’une seule baleine “, et il nous a \u00e9galement fait conna\u00eetre les traditions locales telles que la musique inuite, la danse qui l’accompagne et nous a fait d\u00e9couvrir un go\u00fbt et une texture dont beaucoup d’entre nous auraient pu se passer, la baleine et le blabber de phoque. Rien que de penser \u00e0 ces bons souvenirs, j’ai h\u00e2te de revisiter la petite ville et, esp\u00e9rons-le, de la m\u00eame fa\u00e7on que Joe Garnie, je finirai peut-\u00eatre par trouver mon vieux pote Steve Umaktuk quelque part !<\/p>\n

Steve ne m’a pas reconnu au d\u00e9but. Quand je lui ai dit que j’\u00e9tais sud-africain et que la Suisse avait pass\u00e9 pas mal de temps ici il y a plus de 15 ans, il me l’avait m\u00eame dit : “J’ai un vieil ami, Mike Horn, qui a une histoire similaire.” Il n’a pas mis beaucoup de temps \u00e0 faire le rapprochement et \u00e0 r\u00e9aliser que c’\u00e9tait de moi qu’il parlait. Tout comme Joe dans Teller, Steve n’arrivait pas \u00e0 croire que je venais d’apprendre<\/p>\n

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Pictures : Dmitry Sharomov<\/p>\n\n

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BLOG 4 – 05.09.2019 – Through the Bering Strait and into the Arctic Ocean Just when we thought Pangaea\u2019s issues were over and we could finally focus on our goal, the next problem came knocking on the door. As we left Teller and adjusted our course towards the Pole, our automatic piloting system gave in […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":11896,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[346,136],"tags":[31,20,368,125,141,23,159,49,126,128],"class_list":["post-11944","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-northpolecrossing","category-pole2pole","tag-adventure","tag-arctic","tag-bering-strait","tag-expedition","tag-mikehorn","tag-north-pole","tag-p2p","tag-pangaea-2","tag-pole2pole","tag-sailing"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11944","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/13"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11944"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11944\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/11896"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11944"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11944"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11944"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}