{"id":11704,"date":"2019-09-02T13:24:00","date_gmt":"2019-09-02T13:24:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/?p=11704"},"modified":"2020-08-25T13:47:22","modified_gmt":"2020-08-25T13:47:22","slug":"blog-3-31-09-2019-leaving-nome-and-stopping-in-teller","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/blog-3-31-09-2019-leaving-nome-and-stopping-in-teller\/","title":{"rendered":"BLOG 3 – 31.09.2019 – LEAVING NOME AND STOPPING IN TELLER"},"content":{"rendered":"

After a full week of repairs and preparations, it was finally time for us to leave Nome. We were so warmly welcomed and helped by my old friends and local community that we all only hold fond memories of our short stay here. But now, it\u2019s time for us to change horizons and head north.<\/span><\/p>\n

Bernard has been in contact with a weather professional based in Norway, who has been sending us daily sea ice updates. We have thus been able to observe the ice conditions quite closely and so far they seem to be in our favour. We cannot waste time however, winter will be coming in rapidly. Already, the long sunny days are getting shorter, and the temperatures are getting cooler, the end of summer is definitely on its way.<\/span><\/p>\n

After two days in Nome, we were all impatient to start sailing. Initially our plan had only been to stay a couple days, but Jacek, the boat\u2019s engineer, discovered an issue with the engine, forcing us to wait for a spare part to be flown in from Anchorage. Once the engine was repaired, Bernard the boat\u2019s skipper, told us there was no point leaving now because bad weather was coming in. We then had no choice but to wait for the rain to stop and the seas to calm down, and with only 4 days behind schedule we could set finally sail.<\/span><\/p>\n

I love sailing out of ports! It is always an exciting moment. When you finally leave somewhere and head towards your next destination. As we sailed out of Nome, the whole crew was on deck, some were waiving goodbye to our dear friends at the dock, others were capturing the intensity of the moment on camera and I was at the helm, sight set on my goal and enjoying the sea breeze I had been longing for.<\/span><\/p>\n

We hoisted the sails and headed straight towards our goal: the Pole. Our itinerary would see us sail the Bering sea along the Alaskan coast before making our way through the Bering Strait. The Bering Strait is a strait of the Pacific, which separates Russia and Alaska slightly south of the Arctic Circle at the latitude of about 65 degrees North. The strait is named after Vitus Bering, one of the many explorers I admired as a kid, who served for the Russian Empire. Back in the times of the Earth\u2019s historic ice ages, present-day eastern Siberia and the United States\u2019 state of Alaska were connected by a land bridge, known as the Bering Land Bridge, now fully submerged by the sea making it possible for boats to sail through.<\/span><\/p>\n

I love traveling to parts of the world that have evolved over time. Sailing the Bering Strait and telling myself that long ago one could have walked from the contient of Eurasia to the Americas or vice versa in a matter of days fills me with intrigue and puts things into perspective. Our time here as visitors on this planet is truly minute in the grand scheme of things. We think a lifetime is long, but when we think about the planet\u2019s lifetime, we realise that we\u2019re just a tiny fraction of piece of a huge and very complex puzzle.<\/span><\/p>\n

As these thoughts cross my mind, I suddenly hear Jacek yell from the Engine room, telling us to stop the engines. The pump used for the starboard engine\u2019s cooling system just broke\u2026.This has never happened on Pangaea before. This is an issue we need to find a solution for quickly, as we will be needing both of Pangaea\u2019s engines to be fully functional if we want to sail in sea ice. I therefore grab the phone and call my friend Jeff Darling whom we just had just waved goodbye to in Nome. He responds immediately asking me \u201cwhat\u2019s the problem?\u201d in his strong Alaskan accent. He knew he wouldn\u2019t be hearing from me so soon unless there was an issue. Jeff and his wife Peggy hold an auto parts shop in Nome, and I know I can count on them to find a replacement pump in no time. He doesn\u2019t waste a second, locates one in Homer and informs me to stop along the coast in a small town called Teller,\u00a0 <\/span>to where he will send the part on the next flight in. We thus forget about the North Pole for a bit, change our course and head towards Teller.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

I know Teller well. I spent a lot of time there during my Arktos expedition around the Arctic Circle between 2002 and 2004. During my stay there I had made a very good friend, a guy called Joe Garnie. Although this pump situation is inconvenient and will cause some delay, a stop in Teller is the perfect opportunity to see if Joe\u2019s still around and doing well!<\/span><\/p>\n

[edgtf_separator class_name=”” type=”normal” position=”center” color=”” border_style=”” width=”” thickness=”” top_margin=”” bottom_margin=””]<\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s une semaine compl\u00e8te de r\u00e9parations et de pr\u00e9parations, il \u00e9tait enfin temps pour nous de quitter Nome. Nous avons \u00e9t\u00e9 si chaleureusement accueillis et aid\u00e9s par mes vieux amis et la communaut\u00e9 locale que nous ne gardons tous que de bons souvenirs de notre court s\u00e9jour ici. Mais maintenant, il est temps pour nous de changer d’horizon et de nous diriger vers le nord.<\/p>\n

Bernard a \u00e9t\u00e9 en contact avec un professionnel de la m\u00e9t\u00e9o bas\u00e9 en Norv\u00e8ge, qui nous a envoy\u00e9 des mises \u00e0 jour quotidiennes sur la glace de mer. Nous avons ainsi pu observer de tr\u00e8s pr\u00e8s l’\u00e9tat des glaces et, jusqu’\u00e0 pr\u00e9sent, elles semblent \u00eatre en notre faveur. Nous ne pouvons pas perdre de temps, cependant, l’hiver arrivera rapidement. D\u00e9j\u00e0, les longues journ\u00e9es ensoleill\u00e9es sont de plus en plus courtes et les temp\u00e9ratures de plus en plus fra\u00eeches, la fin de l’\u00e9t\u00e9 est d\u00e9finitivement en route.<\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s deux jours \u00e0 Nome, nous \u00e9tions tous impatients de commencer \u00e0 naviguer. Au d\u00e9part, nous avions pr\u00e9vu de rester quelques jours, mais Jacek, l’ing\u00e9nieur du bateau, a d\u00e9couvert un probl\u00e8me avec le moteur, nous obligeant \u00e0 attendre qu’une pi\u00e8ce de rechange arrive d’Anchorage. Une fois le moteur r\u00e9par\u00e9, Bernard, le skipper du bateau, nous a dit qu’il ne servait \u00e0 rien de partir maintenant car le mauvais temps arrivait. Nous n’avons alors eu d’autre choix que d’attendre que la pluie s’arr\u00eate et que la mer se calme, et avec seulement 4 jours de retard, nous avons pu enfin prendre la mer.<\/p>\n

J’adore naviguer hors des ports ! C’est toujours un moment passionnant. Quand vous partez enfin quelque part et vous dirigez vers votre prochaine destination. Alors que nous quittions Nome, tout l’\u00e9quipage \u00e9tait sur le pont, certains faisaient leurs adieux \u00e0 nos chers amis sur le quai, d’autres capturaient l’intensit\u00e9 du moment devant la cam\u00e9ra et j’\u00e9tais \u00e0 la barre, la vue fix\u00e9e sur mon objectif et la brise de mer que je d\u00e9sirais.<\/p>\n

Nous avons hiss\u00e9 les voiles et nous nous sommes dirig\u00e9s tout droit vers notre objectif : le P\u00f4le. Notre itin\u00e9raire nous fera naviguer le long de la mer de B\u00e9ring, le long de la c\u00f4te de l’Alaska, avant de traverser le d\u00e9troit de B\u00e9ring. Le d\u00e9troit de B\u00e9ring est un d\u00e9troit du Pacifique qui s\u00e9pare la Russie et l’Alaska l\u00e9g\u00e8rement au sud du cercle polaire arctique, \u00e0 environ 65 degr\u00e9s de latitude nord. Le d\u00e9troit porte le nom de Vitus Bering, l’un des nombreux explorateurs que j’admirais quand j’\u00e9tais enfant, qui a servi pour l’Empire russe. \u00c0 l’\u00e9poque des glaciations historiques de la Terre, la Sib\u00e9rie orientale actuelle et l’\u00c9tat am\u00e9ricain de l’Alaska \u00e9taient reli\u00e9s par un pont terrestre, connu sous le nom de pont terrestre de B\u00e9ring, maintenant enti\u00e8rement submerg\u00e9 par la mer, qui permettait aux bateaux de passer.<\/p>\n

J’adore voyager dans des r\u00e9gions du monde qui ont \u00e9volu\u00e9 avec le temps. Naviguer dans le d\u00e9troit de B\u00e9ring et me dire qu’il y a bien longtemps, on aurait pu passer du contenu de l’Eurasie aux Am\u00e9riques ou vice versa en quelques jours, cela me remplit d’intrigue et met les choses en perspective. Le temps que nous passons ici en tant que visiteurs sur cette plan\u00e8te est vraiment infime dans le grand ordre des choses. Nous pensons qu’une vie est longue, mais quand nous pensons \u00e0 la vie de la plan\u00e8te, nous nous rendons compte que nous ne sommes qu’une infime partie d’un puzzle \u00e9norme et tr\u00e8s complexe.<\/p>\n

Comme ces pens\u00e9es me traversent l’esprit, j’entends soudain Jacek crier de la salle des machines, nous disant d’arr\u00eater les moteurs. La pompe utilis\u00e9e pour le syst\u00e8me de refroidissement du moteur tribord vient de se briser….. Cela ne s’est jamais produit auparavant sur Pangaea. C’est une question \u00e0 laquelle nous devons trouver rapidement une solution, car nous aurons besoin des deux moteurs de Pangaea pour \u00eatre pleinement fonctionnels si nous voulons naviguer dans la glace de mer. Je prends donc le t\u00e9l\u00e9phone et j’appelle mon ami Jeff Darling que nous venons de saluer \u00e0 Nome. Il me r\u00e9pond imm\u00e9diatement en me demandant “quel est le probl\u00e8me” avec son fort accent alaskien. Il savait qu’il n’aurait pas de mes nouvelles si t\u00f4t, \u00e0 moins qu’il y ait un probl\u00e8me. Jeff et sa femme Peggy tiennent un atelier de pi\u00e8ces automobiles \u00e0 Nome, et je sais que je peux compter sur eux pour trouver une pompe de remplacement en un rien de temps. Il ne perd pas une seconde, en trouve un \u00e0 Hom\u00e8re et m’informe de m’arr\u00eater le long de la c\u00f4te dans une petite ville appel\u00e9e Teller, o\u00f9 il enverra la pi\u00e8ce sur le prochain vol. On oublie donc un peu le p\u00f4le Nord, on change de cap et on se dirige vers Teller.<\/p>\n

Je connais bien Teller. J’y ai pass\u00e9 beaucoup de temps pendant mon exp\u00e9dition Arktos autour du cercle polaire arctique entre 2002 et 2004. Pendant mon s\u00e9jour l\u00e0-bas, je m’\u00e9tais fait un tr\u00e8s bon ami, un certain Joe Garnie. Bien que cette situation de pompe ne soit pas pratique et cause un certain retard, un arr\u00eat \u00e0 Teller est l’occasion parfaite pour voir si Joe est toujours l\u00e0 et va bien !<\/p>\n\n

\n\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n
\n\n \n \"\"<\/a>\n \n <\/div>\n \n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

After a full week of repairs and preparations, it was finally time for us to leave Nome. We were so warmly welcomed and helped by my old friends and local community that we all only hold fond memories of our short stay here. But now, it\u2019s time for us to change horizons and head north. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":11747,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[346,136],"tags":[31,20,125,141,23,369,159,49,126,128],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11704"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/13"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=11704"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11704\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/11747"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=11704"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=11704"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.mikehorn.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=11704"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}