17.07.2010 – Pakistan. At 2am local time Pakistan, South African Explorer Mike Horn and Swiss mountain guide/alpinist Köbi Reichen reach the summit of Broad Peak without the use of additional oxygen.
"The climb was a tough one due to the large amount of snow that has fallen this year. For three weeks, Köbi and I have been waiting at base camp, ready and eager to attempt the summit. It was important that we waited for the quantities of snow to come down in recent avalanches and for a 30hr fine weather window. Patience is not one of my greatest strengths", says Mike, "but when in the mountains it is important to stick to the rules otherwise Nature will not reward us with this magnificent victory."
Mike and Köbi left Broad Peak base camp at 5'000m and climbed to the summit quickly in alpine style, stopping at Camp 3 (7'100m) for 6 hours before doing the summit push to 8'047m.
Mike Horn's last steps to the summit were done in the memory of Jean-philippe Chatrier, journalist and ghost writer of Mikes four publications; 'Latitude Zero', 'Conquering the Impossible', 'À l'école du Grand Nord' and 'Objectif: Pôle Nord de Nuit'. "It was extremely sad news to hear about Jean-Philippe's sudden death. I took my last steps to the summit for Jean-Philippe. Over the years we developed a great understanding and friendship. He was much loved by myself and my family. I will miss him dearly when writing my next book."
Mike Horn, a relative newcomer to the alpine world, climbed his first 8'000m peaks in 2007, Gasherbrum I (8068m) and Gasherbrum II (8035m) with team members Jean Troillet, Fred Roux and Olivier Roduit. Broad Peak is the third 8'000m summit he has now reached without additional oxygen.
Kobi Reichen, Alpinist and extreme skier from Lauenen in the canton of Bern, Switzerland, has many achievements to his name. The ascent of Broad Peak now brings his 8'000m summit climbs to five; a solo ascent of Cho Oyu 8201m, Shisha Pagma 8046m (South Face- up and down 19 hours), Makalu 8486m, Kangchenzonga 8592m (new route from 7400m) and Mt Everest South Summit at 8'749m. All ascents were made without additional oxygen.
Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif on the border of Pakistan and China. It is located about 8 kilometers (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometers (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak".