HIMALAYA

Young Explorers Team:

• Alexander Groos, 20 yrs, Germany 
• Kai Pryce-Fitchen, 16 yrs, South Africa
• Tiziana Gees, 19 yrs, Switzerland
• Jye Kluske, 19 yrs, Australia 
• Daniel Hübner, 20 yrs, Germany 
• Hugo Clément 17 yrs, France  
• Erica Wineland-Thomson, 20 yrs, USA  
• Basil Tan She Jeeng, 20 yrs, Singapore

• Alexis Häsler,  Mike Horn Team / Logistic Operator, Switzerland
• Erwan Le Lann, Mountain Guide, France
• Alexandre de Vogue, Mountain Guide, France
• Köbi Reichen, Mountain Guide, Switzerland
• Dmitry Sharomov, Mike Horn Team / Photographer, Russia
• Nic Good, Mike Horn Team / Cameraman, South Africa
• Markus Wyss, Mike Horn Team / IT specialist, Switzerland
• Patrick Mc Hugh, Doctor, New Zealand
• Andy Miller, Mayo Clinic Team, USA
• Brian Taylor, Mayo Clinic Team, UK

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Video Gallery

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 25

June 25nd, Day 25 - Last day in Islamabad

A perfect day to finish a perfect adventure for our Young Explorers! They were able to sleep in a bed, eat restaurant foods, shop for souvenirs and discover the sights of Islamabad.

Tomorrow will be another day of traveling for the YEP's as they will board their flights and return to their respective homes all around the world.

Now the next venture will start for the young explorers as they join forces to try and help protect the majestic scenery of the Himalayan Alps for many years to come!

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 22

June 23nd, Day 23 - Alex & Basil

The young explorers are no strangers to long journeys. The much anticipated day has arrived where we would get the opportunity to travel hundreds of kilometers on the Karakorum ‘Highway’, also known as the KKH.

After saying our final farewell to our lovely assistant guide, Javed, we packed our luggage on top of the bus, a practice that is not commonly seen in the countries that we live in. The bus, though insignificant, would be our key to the adventures on the KKH.

The first hour of our journey brought us through the town of Skardu. The lively, dusty town was bustling with life. Sights of children on their way to schools, herds of goats blocking the traffic and locals on their way to work made us wonder what we would experience down the road!

In the meantime, Erwan, our beloved mountain guide, was sitting at the top of the bus, ‘camouflaged ‘with the luggage. The sights and sounds of the town died down discreetly as we entered the valleys of Northern Pakistan.

The Indus River roared mightily beside us the whole time. The crashing of the currents coupled with the sheer size of the valley made us understand that this river is not something to be reckon with. Ironically, this majestic river is the mother of many civilizations that mushroomed around it in the earlier days.

As we travelled down Pakistan with the Indus, we were greeted by small areas of lush greenery that sprouted sporadically along the valleys. The locals built terraces to grow crop such as wheat. So how do the locals travel to the other side of the valley without getting washed away by the mighty Indus? Easy! Ropes are the key! First, the locals amazing managed to get cables across to the other side. Next, they place a basket that could be used to store goods or even children to be sent across to the other side! Amazing feat we must say!

Shortly before lunch, our first mini adventure occurred. Out of the blue, there was a rockfall in front of the bus! Thankfully, the bus driver reacted quickly and stopped in time. The rockfall could be fatal if one of the rocks would be too big! Searching for an opening, the experienced bus driver sped off before more rocks were coming down.

After about 6 hours of driving, we finally entered a portion of the 1500KM KKH. The KKH links Western China and Northern Pakistan and it was part of the ancient Silk Road. Today, modern vehicles ply the important route and the KKH is also a popular spot for adventure seekers. Even though the KKH was built in the 1970s, landslides are the enemies of the Highway. While travelling on the KKH today, we witnessed major constructions along the KKH. Even after 30 years, the KKH has not been completed due to force majeure. However, there was one reason we thought about there was not linked to nature. We noticed that the workers on the KKH were taking their time in doing the work! Perhaps the repair works could be done a few years ago!

Lunch was first suggested at this extremely rundown street-side café. However due to the unhygienic conditions we saw, we decided to skip it and search for another café. We finally settled for a rundown café which appeared slightly better than the first one as we did not have much of a choice! Lunch was simple Chapatti, rice and Dhaao, Pakistani style!

After lunch, we felt the winds started to gust. We rushed back into our bus and soon after raindrops started to fall. We felt fortunate to be in the bus as we saw the trees swaying wildly in the gusting winds. After travelling for a few minutes, we witnessed the most incredible phenomenon ever. The winds were so strong that it lifted up volumes of sand into the sky. It was similar to a sand storm, however, this was different. The sands were forced into columns and brought up hundreds of metres into the sky. The entire place was extremely dusty and visibility was close to zero. The driver had to stop the bus a few times as he could not see what was directly in front of him. One wrong move and we could be swimming in the Indus River down below. This was indeed an adventure for all of us! Even our guide, who has been travelling on this highway for close to 30 years, have not experienced such an act of Nature before!

After 12 hours on the road, we finally arrived at Chilas. Everyone was thankful that today’s bus journey has come to a halt. We checked into a luxurious motel that oversees part of the Indus River. Tomorrow we will continue our journey to Islamabad! It was rumored that the bus ride would be longer than today’s!

Let’s see what adventures and happenings will we encounter tomorrow!

June 22nd, Day 22 - Skardu - From Erica and Hugo

We left Broad Peak Base Camp on the 16th. Mixed emotions were felt as we were sad to say goodbye to Mike and Kobi, but also excited to begin our two new projects; research for the University of Munich and the clean up on the Baltoro Glacier.

We left with a promise; to do our best to remain active for Pangaea and for the environment. We discussed what we can do to keep this valley clean. A major problem is human waste. About seven thousand people travel on the Baltoro glacier per season. In conjunction with Keep Baltoro Clean, an NGO that is dedicated to its task, we want to design a toilet that will be sustainable for use throughout the valley. We also want to somehow provide education to the porters and tourists alike about preventing further pollution on the glacier. We have so many ideas!

And so our journey down the Baltoro Glacier began in the same direction as the glacier moves. We kept a rhythm along the trail, dancing over bolders; our minds still ticking, thinking of ways to protect this magnificent and alive glacier. We came to camps that had not yet been reached by 'Keep Baltoro Clean' and we were eager to assist with cleanups.

After just fifteen minutes of working together we discovered that we can be very affective and it takes hardly any effort to make a big difference. This is an important point we need to remember when wanting to educate people for the sake of the glacier.

On the way to Paiju, we stopped at the Lilligo Glacier to complete some of the research for the University of Munich, requested by Dr. Rosvita Shtoltz. Our research involves recording this glacier's change from past years to the present. The importance of such study is to document the ablation or loss of ice. This can immediately impact communities in the valleys that rely on glaciers for their water supply or irrigation.

Altogether, we have hiked 170km from Askole to Ali Camp and back (stopping at Broad Peak Base Camp). WOW! That is awesome!

Since we have been back in civilization, we have done some shopping in the bazaar in Skardu and we are happy. We are tired, but clean and are currently eating too much Gulab Jammin and chicken. Basil says, “I am too full, I can't walk!!” (He doesn`t know we just wrote that).

We have lived in the Baltoro Valley for three weeks. We have breathed the thin mountain air. We have felt the weight of the pack on our shoulders. We have touched the rocks as we scrambled over them. We have witnessed the summit of a six thousand meter virgin peak. And we have listened everyday to the clapping, singing and laughing of people in unison. No one can take this experience away from us. Each and every one of us has lived something new and unique; something that has found its way into a little corner of our hearts. And so we will act. We will act for this beautiful country, its gracious people and massive glacier that lay at the foot of these majestic mountains. Together, we can make a difference!!!

June 21th 2010 - Day 21

As Mike and Köbi wait at the base camp of Broad Peak for a good weather window to allow them to ascend to the summit, our young Explorers continue on the downhill trek towards Islamabad.

Today the team arrived in Askole - a small town in the most remote region of Karakoram mountains in Northern Pakistan, and gateway to four of the world's fourteen highest peaks known as Eight-thousanders (above 8,000m).

The Young Explorers are all well and happy. Tomorrow their feet will have a rest as they will take a long jeep ride to Skardu.

June 19th 2010 - Day 19

Phonecall from Mike "The YEP's and I have parted company now. After doing the summit 'Pangaea Peak', they joined myself and Köbi to the base camp of Broad Peak where they were able to see the K2 Memorial - a touching memorial for all those alpinists who had lost their lives to the mountain. Our last night together with the Young Explorer's was spent in a large dome tent where we chatted about our adventure and shared our emotions and impressions of the last two weeks we had spent together.

Now it is just myself and Köbi who are left here in the high altitudes of the Himalayas.

I heard just now that the Young Explorers have reached Payu today and are once again back in the heat of the lower altitudes. They managed to have cold showers so I'm sure they must be feeling great. They are on track for Askole and Skardu and running to schedule.

Myself and Köbi have just returned to the base camp of Broad Peak. Köbi and I left at 4 am this morning and ascended 2'000m, up and down again in 9 hours. Köbi is an experienced Himalyan alpinist, having already climbed 5 summits above 8'000 meters.

The climb to 7'000m was difficult because of the quantity of deep snow we encountered but we are well acclimatised and are both in top condition physically.

At 7'000meters we set up camp in preparation for the summit attempt. We took up a tent, sleeping mats, food and cooker.

Now we must rest and wait for the correct weather window before attempting the Broad Peak summit of 8'047m.

I'm excited - You should have seen the view at 7'000m today! It was a beautiful day and the scenery spectacular. I hope we'll be so lucky to have the same weather in the next few days.
 

June 18th 2010 - Day 18

The YEP's continue their downwards trek. They have left the Baltoro Glacier and have arrived today at Kubutze which is at 4'000m of altitude. Tomorrow they should arrive at Paiyu.

Still reeling in the summit and their experiences with Mike and the Pangaea Team, the Young Explorers have many things to discuss on the downward trek, especially how they can join together forces and gather support to help protect this majestic environment for the future generations.

June 17th 2010 - Day 17

Alexis has just sent a message. The weather has improved and visibility is once again restored to normal.The YEP's, Pangaea Team and Nazir Sabir's group of porters are now heading down in altitude and will be sleeping at Goro II this evening. The YEps are all fine and in high spirits ... just a few sore feet and new muscles that are beginning to ache with the descent!!

June 16th 2010 - Day 16

Alexis reports, "We didn't go far today. It's snowing and even the porters can't find their way down the mountain!! We are back at Concordia and will head down from there tomorrow morning. The YEP's are enjoying a day after the summit. Will send you more news tomorrow." Alexis.

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 15

June 15th 2010 - Day 15

From Alex & Basil

After the successful attempt of the virgin peak above 6'000m, we were prepared to leave Ali Camp for Concordia. Before departing, we did a clean-up exercise to ensure that the campsite remains as unpolluted as how we have seen it the first time. In addition, we convinced some porters to bring the rubbish back down instead of burning it.

On the way down Baltoro Glacier, more than 70 porters created a massive line, which stood out extremely well in the snow. Staying at such high altitudes for a few days did help in the acclimatization of our bodies, making the trek back to Concordia less strenuous and difficult.

Upon reaching Concordia, we were delighted to see Alexis and Basil again. It was a pity that they could not follow us to Ali Camp. During lunch, we realized that Dmitry was not with us! We were worried that he might have fallen into a crevasse as there was bad weather brewing in Baltoro. After sending a small search party, Dmitry was spotted not too far away. The reason behind his delay? Photos!!!

Some of the young explorers did their interviews with cameraman Moose about the climb. Next, we did the famous step test with the Mayo Clinic. The comparison of the results of the previous step test done at Concordia a few days ago, underlined the fact that most of us were now more acclimatized to the current altitude as we were living on higher grounds for the past few days. This was shown by a higher percentage of our oxygen saturation level in our blood.

During tea, the young explorers came together to discuss the possible names for our mountain. It was a highly heated, but friendly debate. However, after much time, no conclusion has been made. The young explorers decided to spend more time during the return leg to brainstorm new ideas for the name.

The next day, we will trek to the base camps of K2 and Broad Peak where Mike and Kobi will set off for their climb to these summits. In addition, we will have the opportunity to visit the K2 memorial to understand and learn about the dangers behind this unforgiving mountain.

Basil:
Dear all! If you have not seen me in the recent photos or videos, do not fret! I’m back! Yup, I did not have the chance to reach the physical summit of the mountain.  I have been staying in Concordia with Alexis for the past 3 nights. Our friendly host was a group of local environmentalists who are cleaning up Baltoro Region during the trekking season.

Let’s have a flashback to the 12th of June 2010. In the morning, I was feeling really good to trek to Ali Camp, our Base Camp. However, after 40 minutes of trekking, a partially recovered fractured ankle, a severe cough and a breathless me, I was maxed out and started to drift away from the group. Every step I took was taking up much of my energy and it was impossible to travel together with the group. It was then, I realized, I had to turn back. This is the first time I have experienced reaching my personal physical and mental limits. There was no strength left within me to continue. With that realization, I cried, a sign of my emotional inability to acknowledge the fact that I would not be climbing with the team. If I have continued, I might lose my life or endanger the lives of others. It was not wise to jeopardize the success and safety of the climb.

As I reluctantly witnessed the team distanced from me in the snow, I made my way back to Concordia. Upon reaching, I was greeted by a group of friendly Pakistanis who are involved in cleaning Baltoro Glacier. I realized that an excellent opportunity has presented itself! I would be able to focus on the ‘Learn’ & ‘Act’ philosophies of the exploration. The ‘Keep Baltoro Clean’ Group comprises 7 strong individuals who will stay in the mountains for up to 3 months.

A chat with the leader of ‘Keep Baltoro Clean’, Mohammad Raza, helped me understand a few facts. Last year, the group collected a total of 10,300 KG of rubbish from the campsites. This year, they have plans of collecting 12,000 KG of waste. A further enquiry made me realized that they did not have the autonomy to clean up the military campsites which are very much polluted. After a short discussion, I felt extremely fortunate to be able to spend a few days, living the Balti culture in the mountains, carrying out tasks and discussing problems and solutions together with these like-minded locals. As the other members of the expedition were scaling the summit, I was the representative in climbing the environmental ‘summit’ of Baltoro Glacier.

Over the days, while recuperating, I was deeply engaged in serious discussions of waste management, sanitation and the living conditions of the porters on the Baltoro Glacier. One of the discussions was the installations of proper toilets in the camps so that the waste can be transported properly to a location to be converted as fertilizer. Another topic was the provision of adequate shelter for the porters who were currently living in snow caves covered by plastic sheets in the cold and harsh conditions. We discussed about ways to get sustainable shelter for the porters who carry up to 40 KG of load and trek up to 8 hours a day.

In addition, I was involved in some cleaning up around Concordia. It appeared that proper education of waste management was not provided to the guides and porters as they tried to burn the rubbish. Most of the rubbish would not combust in the snow leaving kerosene and partially burnt rubbish all around the campsites. The team aimed to educate the guides and porters to ensure that they bring the rubbish down or risk getting a fine from the environmental enforcers of the Baltoro Glacier.

The strong Balti culture exuded by the team allowed me to adapt to the culture quickly. Simple meals consisting of Chapatti and a single vegetarian dish were tasty, yet nutritious.  I ever had the chance to try my hands on making Chapatti! Listening to classical Balti music and watching the squabbles about political parties were part of the never-boring routines. The last night, before the rest of the expedition team met us, ended off with a huge bang with the team singing and celebrating to the voices of a united Balti Culture.

Overall, the days spent in Concordia was extremely, unexpectedly fulfilling. I was able to have close interactions with the locals. The sharing of ideas and discussions were extremely crucial in sustaining the Baltoro Glacier. The cleaning up in Concordia further ensured the success of the Pangaea Expedition in the Himalayas.

News came yesterday that the summit was reached. I was delighted that the attempt to climb the virgin peak was successful. In the meantime, I was attempting the other ‘summit’ for Mother Nature.

I will break off with the team again tomorrow and start an early descent back to Askole as I am expecting myself to take a day more with my ankle still in bad shape. Mike was actually suggesting a helicopter to bring me down! That would have been amazing, breathtaking and extremely costly. I will travel with another porter and may not see the group for a few days! Stay tuned to hear about my extraordinary experience back down!

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 14

June14, 2010 - Day 14 - We Summit !

Hugo and Erica Blog: June 14th-Base Camp

Today was a big day.  We woke up at midnight, we got our headlamps ready, ate some “Trek and Eat” and began our hike to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 1. The weather was very cold because there were no clouds in the sky, but a bit of wind.  It took one hour to reach our previously stashed harnesses, ice picks, crevasse kits, helmets and crampons in the tent (we set up the day before).  We were a little bit tired before the climb due to only 4 hours of sleep the night before and the altitude was at 5,200.  But we felt more acclimatized because we hiked up to that altitude the day before. 

We were split up into three climbing groups, each led by one of the excellent mountain guides; Erwan, Alex and Kobi.  Alex had Jye, Daniel and Erica and Erwan took Hugo, Tiziana, Kai and Alexander.  Kobi had Bryan, Markus and Andy. 
And so it began. We could not see very far in front of us, just the halo of the Petzl headlamp and the steps made by Kobi.  We had to focus on many things; where to put the crampons, the ice axe and the walking stick. But also to make sure that the rope was tight in between you and the person in front of you. We were also battling the altitude. 

The slope became steeper and steeper and we could only tell that because of the effort to make a step and the angle that our ankle was bending.  You had to make sure that ten points of the crampon were solid on the snow so as not to slip and fall.  It was very difficult. 
We spent most of the time going straight up the main face of the mountain.  Then we traversed left and walked up the ridge, which led us to the false summit, and then the summit!  Erica and Hugo really felt the altitude but could combat it with a constant and safe pace, which accompanied the breath and movement of the ice axe.  So as one foot moved forward then the other, we would breath in deeply then the ice axe would follow this breath, then we would breath out audibly. This pattern was repeated more than one thousand times. 

As we heard today from Mike`s point of view, looking up onto the mountain as the three groups were ascending with the sharp point of the Petzl headlamps was incredible and beautiful.  Once we reached the top of the ridge, the sun was rising…it was 5 am.  We could just see the tips of Gasherbrum  1, 2, 3 and 4.  The sun was rising just behind the peaks and the rays were extremely exaggerated and pointed out of the peaks with a magnificent orange glow.  Within 30 seconds, however the clouds covered up the sun and it was very cold.

We were all extremely emotional and happy to have reached this new summit at a little more than 6,000m, which we have named; Pangaea Peak.  Jye thinks that “there is no other feeling like reaching the top of an unclimbed summit.”  The Young Explorers all took out our flags for the photos, representing 6 nationalities.  It was a moment we have been waiting for and it is a unique experience for everyone that will never be lost.  Unfortunately not all 8 of the Young Explorers were able to experience this feeling.  2 of the 8 did not make it to the summit due to the altitude.  However, we are still one team that supports each other and works well together.

After 6 exhausting hours of ascending and descending Pangaea Peak, not including the two hours roundtrip from Base camp to ABC, we all collapsed in our tents.  We are a bit more lively now and our bellies are ready for some food, which will be good for replenishing our bodies. 
 

From Daniel and Kai - We summit this evening !!!

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 13

June13, 2010 - Day 13

From Daniel and Kai - We summit this evening !!!

We had a late and relaxed start in the day. We only had to get up at 5.45 am – which is luxury compared to the previous morning and the following. After we managed to open the tent’s frozen zippers (which is due to our own breath that freezes at minus 14 °C) we left to set up the advanced base camp (aka ABC). This will store certain gear and safety equipment that we brought up today so that we can ascend to the summit as light and as fast as possible.

The trek began with frozen conditions, however as we walked on, the temperature shot up and it began to feel like the Sahara Desert-blistering conditions and the reflection from the snow and ice made it HOTTER!! We left early so the snow would be frozen and solid to walk on. We hurried up as fast as we could with our heavy backpacks and against the harsh altitude.

We got to ABC’s destination at 9 am and we immediately set up the storage tent on a crevasse (big nasty hole in the glacier) free spot. While we packed the tent with ropes, ice axes, harnesses, ice screws, spare socks, and spare underwear, the guides used the binoculars to decide which would be the safest mountain and route to climb. Finally the decision was to climb up a 45 degree slope to a saddle (bordering at 6000m!!!) from there we’ll judge which summit is the best option of the two virgin peaks (left or right). The left will be a more technical climb, requiring fixed ropes and crossing dizzying drops to both sides. The other is a long icy ridge to the summit, only manageable with crampons.

Once we finished our cups of tomato soup we headed back across the Vigne Glacier at plus 35 degrees to Ali Camp. Even though it was downhill, the trek wasn`t as easy as we thought! Due to the heat the snow became slushy and every second step we stuck in a  meter of snow and we were left exhausted and dehydrated after the trek.

Our assault on the summit will start at 1 am tomorrow morning with headlamps and down jackets. The plan now is to relax, recover, eat and drink to prepare ourselves to be ready for an 18 hour slog to the unnamed summit.

Kai and I are looking forward to the climb however temperatures and the altitude will not make it as fun as we may of thought before!
Daniel and I send love to our families at home and we hope we’ll come back one day ☺

D & K

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition - Day 12

June12, 2010 - Day 12

From Tiziana and Jye

All the Young Explorers and the Mike Horn team woke up at 4 o’clock so we could use the frozen snow, which is much easier to walk on. We walked up the Upper Baltoro Glacier and then turned right to the Vigne Glacier, where we finally arrived in Ali Camp, our Base Camp. We were lucky to start so early, so we could enjoy wonderful weather and perfect temperature. On our hike we saw a huge avalanche, which we know was caused by falling of a Serac, because usually they don’t appear in the early morning.

While pitching up the tents the weather changed; wind and snow came up; everyone was happy to get lunch and after that some sleep in our warm tents. After waking up, the weather had changed again to hot and sunny… After tea all the Young Explorers got their helmets and ice picks for the next day. Everyone Is so excited to begin the trek up to unclimbed peak to set up advanced base camp early tomorrow morning.
 

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition - Day 11

June 1,  2010 - Day 11

From: Alexander & Basil
 

Basil: This is our 2nd Friday in Pakistan. Everyone is feeling alright except me.  I’m running a slight temperature and feels horrible! I want to recover soon so I can reach the summit!

Alex: I’m the leader for today. My task is to ensure that today’s activities run smoothly. Today’s our rest day at Concordia and that means we can sleep in late. When I first opened the tent, I was greeted with a spectacular view of what Karakorum has to offer. I was surrounded by 2 8000M peaks, K2, which is the 2nd highest mountain in the world and Broad Peak. The weather was perfect so the summits of these peaks were visible. I started to ponder how much effort and determination one is required to scale these summits. Mike and Corby will be attempting these summits after our expedition!

Basil: After breakfast, we started off with a photo shoot by Dmitry coupled with some video taking by Moose. We had to walk quite a distance for a good photo and I was literally dragging my feet as I was feeling extremely exhausted. Dmitry took quite a number of photos of us with the magnificent K2 at the background. Next, one of the video shoots required us to run across the snow. I was panting so badly as if I was going to faint! Now I understand that living in snowy conditions is really not easy. Now I start to appreciate the city life I’m leading back in Singapore.

Alex: Mayo Clinic Step Test was next. It was quite an interesting sight to see Andrew and Bryan setting up the research station on the snow, in front of the magnificent mountains. It looked like the harsh conditions are not stopping these research professionals from carrying out the study they required. Kudos to them! At 4600M above sea level, the step test was not easy. With an increase in tempo of the Step Test, our oxygen saturation level in our blood dropped to 75%! This was coupled with an increase in heart rate. Few candidates could not complete the fastest tempo of the Step Test as the same exercise is tougher with an increase in altitude.

Basil: We were given our Officine Panerai T-Shirt! One of our 3 main sponsors of the Pangaea Expeditions. Mike was wearing an Officine Panerai watch and Dmitry had to ensure that the watch was visible at all times in the photo. After, I was back in my tent to rest and it was a pity that I could not fall asleep.  Dr. Patrick gave me some medication and I could not wait to feel better.

Alex: Our sumptuous lunch made us really happy. It was quite queer to be able to taste such great food in the middle of the Baltoro Glaciers as there is hardly any life around here. At that point of time, the sun was directly overhead and it was extremely hot despite being surrounded by snow everywhere. This was indeed quite a weird phenomenon as we hardly see snow and sun being grouped together in a current situation.

Basil: This blog entry was written rather early as Markus has to send the data before dinner. In addition, we will set off from Concordia to Ali Camp (Base Camp) at 0500H tomorrow!  The trek will take about 8 hours and we are hopeful for good weather! In the meantime, I do hope I can recover real soon for the summit!

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 10

June 10th - Day 10

From Erica

Concordia: We have finally arrived in Concordia-the junction of the Upper Baltoro glacier and the Austin-Godwin glacier. Quite a well-known place and everyone is extremely impressed. We started this morning from Gore 2 and hiked along the snow for 5-6 hours. We gained 300 meters of altitude.

Baig, our guide who is very experienced and hikes the Baltoro Glacier every year said that he has never seen Concordia so full of snow! It was a very strange sensation to hike with gaiters through the snow (with wet feet) but sweating on the upper body and having the sun shining upon us so strongly that if we did not wear sunblock we would be scorched.

The snow changed throughout the day from hard to slush. It was very difficult to walk because our feet would sink in up to our knees at times, which was always unexpected. When we arrived in Concordia we were finally able to see the ENORMOUS and beautiful K2. This was a special moment for all. It is sooo much bigger than we had imagined. After we all got some rest and those with altitude sickness were attended to by Patrick, the doc, we ate some food and are now ready for some sleep.

Tomorrow is our rest day and more views of K2!!!

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 9

9th of June. Day 9

From Kai & Daniel

The morning began early with orders coming directly from our French leader Hugo. Even though it was 5 am in the morning Hugo kept everyone in line without breaking a sweat.

After the kitchen staff filled us up with a high calorie breakfast we bounced off to start our long trek from Urdokas to Gore II.

In the first two hours the team struggled with the unstable debris of the glacier, however as we carried on the landscape began to look more like a glacier.

The highlight of the trek was seeing and hearing massive glaciers being carved out by small amounts of glacier melt (compared to the magnitude of Baltoro). The patterns made by the water flow created great colors of blue and turquoises which stood against the dark debris and powder white snow. Once the glacier melt has dug its way through the rock hard ice of the glacier it creates a point called a Moulin which carries the water to the base of the million year old glacier where it gathers and forms the main stream. This stream lubricates the ground and makes the glacier move forward.

At Gore II we had freezing conditions and everyone just wanted to stay in their warm sleeping bags. However we were drawn out by the fascinating stories of Mike`s incredible expeditions. Later on a discussion arose about the goal of the expedition. Everyone in the team gave their honest opinion about their motives of being here. What was summarized was that we were focusing too much on getting to the summit and forgot about the Pangaea message, which includes the research about this unique area and preserving this fragile environment from pollution and the affects of climate change.

We all went to bed with a different goal, attitude and motive for the expedition. We all still focused on the summit, however there is going to be more of a balance in protecting and preserving the Pangaea message!
 

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 8

June 8, 2010. Day 8

From Jye and Tiziana

We were all so excited to start our journey along the Baltoro Glacier from Paiju to Urkdaras at 6.30 am. The trek was quite a challenge for the Young Explorers and the Mike Horn Team as the terrain was extremely difficult. It ranged from very slippery ice to unstable boulders. We also experienced all four seasons of weather today, from snow to sunny blue skies. The surroundings were incredibly beautiful, however it was so important that we all concentrated on potential hazards.

We all found time to enjoy the majestic mountains of the Karakorams. On the approach to Urdukas the Trango Towers, Cathedral Rock and in the far distance Broad Peak made for an amazing trek. All the young explorers had a great day learning all about the Baltoro glacier and many of the surrounding peaks; with this knowledge we hope be ambassadors for Pakistan to promote its beauty, and particularly work together on cleanup projects to further improve this amazing region.
 

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 7

June 7, 2010. Day 7

From Basil & Alex

Hi everyone! It us again! We’ll try to spice up this entry as much as possible! Due to the shortage of battery power, we were required to write this out on a piece of paper first before typing it out as quickly as possible onto the laptop before it shuts down! I (Basil) planned to do it in 15 minutes!

Today’s our much anticipated rest day at Paiyu Campsite (3500M). Our breakfast commenced 1h later than usual as there would be no trekking for today. After breakfast, we started off with the Mayo Clinic Step Test. Test Results: The oxygen saturation level dropped with an increase in heart rate. A good pattern was forming between the previous Step Test making Andrew and Bryan from the Mayo Clinic very happy.   

Meanwhile, the rest of the group did some cleaning up and laundry as there was water available at this campsite. The water was freezing cold as it came from meted ice caps up in the mountains. However, this did not stop us from ensuring proper hygiene being practiced as we have been trekking in extremely rough, dusty and sandy terrain over the past days.   

Next, the much-awaited sacrificial ceremony was scheduled to take place by the riverbank. The slaughtering of 2 goats and 1 yak was indeed an eye-opening and shocking experience for us. For the first time, many of us witnessed the sacred sacrificial of the animals to ‘Allah’ (God). The animals were cut in the throat and the blood stained the clear water of the river with an eerie red. The sacrifice was the only way to get fresh meat in this region. The meat was then divided among the 200 odd porters present. Some of the meat became mutton curry for our dinner too.   

After lunch, we were supposed to do a short hike up to get our bodies to acclimatize faster. However, bad weather was imminent and we stayed in the mess tent to listening to interesting stories shared by individuals.   

Following on, Erwan showed us the usage of a hyperbaric bag. The purpose of the bag is to increase the pressure within in order to mimic a lower altitude in the tent. This would be extremely useful for individuals suffering from severe altitude sickness. The bag, when fully inflated, looked like a comfortable place to be in!   

After tea (if you noticed, we were really well-fed), Andrew & Bryan explained the results of the armbands that monitored our bodily functions. On average, we burnt more than 5000 kilocalories and took an average of more than 30,000 steps a day! On a usual day, an individual would only burn 2000 to 3000 kilocalories a day. The statistics we gathered over the past few days were extreme!   

Dinner came shortly after and Mike showed us the photos taken by Dmitry over the past days. In addition, the 3rd video produced by Nic Moose was screened. The 3rd video was really well done and the young explorers looked good and spoke well in front of the camera! We spent some time voting for the best photos that were taken over the past few days. It was a long process as Dmitry snapped many breathtaking photos. Good job everyone!   

The next day will be a long one as we have to wake up earlier to get ready for a long and strenuous trek to Urdukas. The 9-hour long trek will have us standing on the Baltoro Glacier for the first time. The 62km long, 2km wide glacier is one of the longest outside the Polar Regions. The young explorers are extremely anxious to be able to ‘feel’ the mighty glacier! Stay tuned for the next entry tomorrow! (It took me 25 minutes to type this out.)
 

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 6

From Hugo and Erica

June 6, 2010. Day 6 : Paiju camp

It is currently 20:34 and the 18 members of the expedition just ate a scrumptious carbohydrate-packed meal.  Today we ate breakfast at around 7 in Jola camp and began walking at 7:30.  We were very efficient this morning and got an early start! 

We hiked for around 7 hours today; however everyone has a different pace so some got to Paiju earlier than others. The trail was continuously along side the Baltoro River and was often on just sand, where the river once was.  There were many hills to climb, which most of us felt due to the altitude at 3400 m but following the up there was a down, which was a nice relief! The sand we were often walking on was filled with mica; which is a shiny mineral that made the sand look like it was filled with silver specks.  Every season the river changes in height and strength and this season it is extremely low.  We were able to see many perfectly round rocks (typically metamorphic) that were shaped by the river in previous seasons.  This made it quite interesting to walk over because you could lose the trail easily and you had to be careful where to put your feet so as not to twist an ankle. 

We were constantly looking around us at the beautiful mountains that slowly came into view as we walked closer to our destination.  Our senses were always aware and active today because the landscape was constantly changing; rocks, wind (carrying donkey feces) and vegetation.  Near the end of the day we walked around a corner and suddenly the Baltoro Glacier was in view.  And WOW was it in view!  It is so much bigger than we had imagined! It takes up the width of the entire Baltoro Valley.  From what we can see so far, it is completely covered in debris.  This makes the glacier look like lots of rock piled on top of itself, when actually there is only a thin layer of rock with very thick ice underneath.

Now we are at the Paiju camp and the weather is changing quickly so we have to be more prepared and aware of the environment around us.  So when we are up at higher altitude we can better understand these changes and adapt to them more efficiently.  We are learning about ways to make our stay up in altitude more enjoyable and easy. For example Erwan told us how to organize our tent at night and keep certain habits; like getting used to having clothing inside our sleeping bag at night.  Also we learned that we must be more aware of our body so that we don’t get too tired up in altitude.  We are all ready for some sleep! 

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 5

From Kai & Daniel

June 5, 2010. Day 5 : Askole

Askole at 3100m. 6:00am everyone woke up for to start to prepare their backpack and roll up their tents. At 7am we were all in the mess tent for breakfast.Next to our camp site, 300 people were waiting, hoping to be chosen as porters for our expedition. Beck, the expedition organizer from Nazir Sabir organization was managing the complete process. The area were divided in tow levels. On the lower level, the 300 local people were listening carefully to the announces. On the higher level, becks with two people helping him were choosing the porters and diving the loads in between them.

It was fascinating to see the anxiety in some eyes, waiting to listen their name. And it was always amazing to see the smiling faces of the chosen ones.

As everything was happening just in front of us, we had the chance to see and learn how the porters are packing and carrying their loads. And it was even more surprising to see the equipment they had. Most of them have light trousers, long shirts and a long kind of down jacket on top. They all have light training shoes and some even don't have socks.

While everyone was busy with the distribution of the equipment, one man took the most of the presence of our expedition to bring his young sick child to us. Fortunately Patrick, our expedition doctor, could go through a quick check of the kid and give him some medicines-.

At 8:00am all our Young Explorers were ready to start their journey to the first camp on the way to the Baltoro Glacier: Johla. A 6 hours walk with a very small elevation as we had only 100m in altitude to gain.

The start of the trek was quite easy and flat. Fortunately the weather was excellent. The sun was shining but the temperature was not too high. As we were leaving, the first porters joined us on the path. With 25kg loads of our equipment plus their equipment on their back they were still walking further than us. There is nothing to say: these people are incredibly strong and fit.

After two hours of trek, the path started to become a bit steeper. Nothing really hard for our Young Explorers but just something to give us a first taste of effort. We than walked along a nice cliff up the river that we were already following as from Skardu. We stopped for short lunch in a kind of a small oasis, we found a very small river in which we could fill up our bottles. As this water was coming from upper glaciers, it was very refreshing.

After another few hours waling, we could finally see the camp site, standing at the other side of the big river flowing down to Askole. The river this year is quite low and some of us tried to cross it by foot, which allows to take a short cut to the camp site. But as the current was quite strong and the river finally quite deep (more than we expected in fact) we told the Young Explorers not to follow the shortcut but to go and cross the rive on a proper bridge, 2 km further away from the camp.

As soon as we reached the camp, we set up or solar generators and tried to take the most of the rest of the sunlight to charge our batteries.

At 7pm we all met in the mess tent for a nice dinner and as usual we spoke about the next day. It will be the first time for us to see the K2 and Broad Peak !!!!!

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 4

From Jye & Tiziana

June 4, 2010. Day 4. Departure Skardu

The departure was schedule for 8 am. Breakfast at 7am. At 7:30am everybody was busy to     load the 5 jeeps that were going to drive us to Askole. At 7:55 people per jeep took a seet and at 8:00 our caravane was ready to leave. A 115 km long journey was in front of us. The first 15km could have give us a wrong idea of what was waiting for us.Quickly we reached the shacky typical mountain pakistanese roads. From there on, the nice comfort of the always well maintained 4x4 jeeps seemed to completely disappear.

After a 4 hour drive we stopped for a nice lunch next to the Shrigar river. The sun came out of the clouds and we could eat outside in a nice garden.

We took our place back into the jeep and started to enter in more and more wild area.The terrain became rugger and only a few oasis of vegetation could be seen from time to time. Next to this vegetation we could see some small houses with local people taking the most of this vegetation to grow cereals and vegetables and give something to eat to their gohts and cows.

As the roads were becoming narrower, the cliffs were also becoming bigger which started to give a very impressive dimension to our journey. We could definitely appreciate the big experience of these roads from our dirvers.

Because of a bad landslide during the winter we were stopped at a bridge that had been destroyed by a big rock. The only way for us to carry on was to offload all the equipment from our jeep and going by foot though what was left from the bridge, carrying our luggages.

Fortunately, just after the brigde, a new caravane of jeeps were waiting for us. Another 1.5 hour drive and we reached Askole at 3144m.

The temperature had dropped a little since we left Skardu and a gently rain welcomed us.

The camp was already set up for us and the tent started to be distributed. 2 people per tent. Tiziana with Erica,  Hugo with Jye, Daniel with Basil and Kai with Alexander.

Before having dinner we went to the local museum to learn about the Shrigar Valley, the architecture of the houses and the way of life of the local people. It was very interesting to learn how people face the difficult conditions of this valley.

At 7:30pm we all had a good dinner in the mess tent. To finish the day, we had a briefing after dinner to speak about general organization and preparation of the next day.

YEP 5 Himalaya Expedition Day 3

June 3, 2010. Day 3. Skardu

After our first night in low altitude (Skardu is around 2200m high) we all met for breakfast at 8am. The morning was going to start with a new packaging strategy!

Skardu is the last village in the valley having an airstrip and also our last destination with proper rooms and hotel. As from Askole (the next village we will reach by jeep tomorrow) we will start to sleep in tents. Furthermore, it's also from Askole that we will start our trek and meet the porters. Hence the importance to pack our bags in a proper way.

It's today that we had to confirmed the number of porters we will have with us as from Askole. Each porter carries a maximum of 25kg of our personal equipment.

The first task for our Young Explorers was then to pack their bags so that they would not weight more than 12.5kg. This would allow to have one porter for the personal equipment of two Young Explorers. Once this was done, we still had to sort out all the technical mountaineering equipment and share it in loads of 25kg into 60L barrels.

With all the personal equipments the technical equipment, solar panels, generators and the medical equipment, we ended up with 31 loads of 25kg each for the 19 members of our expedition. This means that as from Askole, we will need 31 porters dedicated only to our gear, without counting all the logistics for the food, the base camp tents, etc, etc.

As the Mike Horn team was busy finishing the packing, our eight Young Explorers went to play wit the local children. The first contact was quickly made and the young kids of the village were very happy to have new friends to laugh and play with.

In the middle of the afternoon all of the luggage was ready and we took the opportunity to go for a tour of the Skardu’s bazaar and visit the shops.

It was definitely not the kind of shops that our Young Explorers were used to seeing. No big supermarket, but a lot of small shops in every corner.

At 8pm a barbecue was ready for us in the small garden of the hotel. As usual in Pakistan, we had a delicious meal and the owner of the guesthouse prepared a small surprise for the end of the evening.  A local music band from Baltistan was invited to play for us. Some of the local people start to dance and we all ended up trying to move with the music. 

It was an excellent last evening in civilization. As from tomorrow and for three whole weeks, our usual way of life with running water, beds and electricity will end!!

YEP 5 HIMALAYA EXPEDITION DAY 2

From Hugo & Erica

June 2, 2010. Day 2. Skardu - 2250m

Today we left the Heritage Hotel at 8 am to drive to the Islamabad International Airport to catch our flight to Skardu.  We woke up at 6:30 (Hugo woke up at 7:30) in order to bring our bags downstairs, eat and load the bags and 7 iLand cases (Solar power generators) into the van. At 8 in the morning the temperature was so hot that we were sweating carrying the bags from inside the hotel to the van.

 
The 8 young explorers and the Mike Horn team were assigned bags that we had to look after because it is hard to keep track of 49 pieces of luggage!
Many people were very curious and gave us smiles as we walked into the domestic terminal.  We moved slowly as a big group, but we were quite efficient for the task we were trying to complete; check in!  We were screened with our bags and men and women were separated so the women were checked by women and the men were checked by men.  Everything was going very smoothly until Hugo was confused for a female by a male security guard who was trying to be funny. This created much laughter! Next we waited for four hours in the departure hall anticipating our flight to Skardu.  We slept, we read, we walked around the room, we made up games and we drank a lot of water and eventually the plane arrived!

The next leg of our journey will surely not be forgotten!  The 45 minute flight to Skardu was exciting and beautiful. There was some clouds that created turbulence, a child may or may not have vomited all over the ground and a few drinks flew, but everyone had smiles on their faces at the end. As we flew closer to Skardu, the skies suddenly opened up and the majestic mountains of the Karakoram Range appeared.  This was an amazing sight, as the mountains were visible in all directions for as far as the eye could see! 

We landed at the Skardu airport and we were greeted by a lot of people. Next we loaded the vans with all of our bags (we weren`t missing any!) and drove through the dusty and busy streets to the Concordia Motel.  Everyone was very tired from our busy schedule since the first day in Pakistan and we were glad to be in this fantastic place! The view from the motel is outstanding; it looks out over the Indus River up at a 4,000m peak. We met the cooks and assistant guides for our next 18 days and they were so friendly and happy to meet us, as were we!  Speaking for the 6 other Young Explorers, we can say that we are really excited to begin our journey in the mountains and learn more about this beautiful country so that we can be good ambassadors to it!!

YEP 5 HIMALAYA EXPEDITION DAY 1

June 1, 2010. Day 1

Everyone arrived safely in Islamabad. The Young Explorers are very excited about the coming few weeks ahead and are eager to get away from civilisation and into the majestic valleys of the Himalayas.

Today, Mike and the team are checking and the technical equipment, tents and trekking food that were sent previously via cargo. A thorough control of all equipment is essential for the success of the expedition.

Later this evening a press conference will be held with Nazir Sabir Expeditions. Local press will attend and meet our international group of Young Ambassadors who will explain to the press the environmental mission of the Pangaea Expedition and their motivations for exploring this beautiful region.

Early tomorrow, the expedition starts with short flight to Skardu which promises to be a spectacular one for the team as they will get first glimpses of the 8'000 meter peaks,  namely the Naga Parbat at 8125m!

Introduction:

The fifth Young Explorers Program will take place from the 1st to the 26th of June in the Karakoram, Pakistan. This expedition will have various objectives amongst which, showing the beauty of the Himalayas to the Young Explorers, focusing their attention on the importance and beauty of the glaciers, and the role it plays in the ecology and teach them about their own metabolism and acclimatization to high altitudes The Himalayan YEP will be based upon the three main Pangaea pillars: Explore -> Learn -> Act

Explore:

Being in the heart of the biggest and most impressive mountain range in the world, the Young Explorers will have the chance to explore the Baltoro Massif.
The Baltoro Glacier is one the longest glacier out of the polar region. For peaks above 8000 meters are located around the glacier: The Gasherbrum I and II, Broad Peak and K2. The opening of the high Gondogoro pass (5650m) adds a new dimension to the magnificent K2 Trek, making it possible to return via the beautiful Hushe Valley.

Thanks to Mike Horn previous experiences in the Himalaya, the Young Explorers will explore the nature of these high altitude mountains and the potentially strenuous conditions of trekking and mountaineering. Mike Horn will be their guide and mentor to show them how to react in difficult conditions and to test themselves mentally and physically in the toughest conditions.

Through the Mayo Clinic tests and evaluations, the Young Explorers will also explore their physiological limits and the human body performance. They will be able to push themselves to new limits in a very safe environment as their physical efforts will be closely followed and monitored by an experienced team of the Mayo Clinic.

Finally, the exploration of the local traditions and the cultures will be open to the Young Explorers as they will have a direct contact with local people. Guides, porters, and Sherpa’s will be part of the expedition and will liaise with local villagers and other expeditions to allow the Young Explorers to explore the way of living in these high altitude valleys.

Learn:

The best way of learning is by getting personal experience. The Young Explorers will definitely have new experiences during the 26 days they will travel in Pakistan. It will be the first time for most of them to spend such length of time out of their comfort zone. They will learn to be prepared in order to live in a complete self-sufficient way. This experience will definitely teach them how important it is to respect our natural resources. It will make them aware of saving energy, controlled consumption and not to waste anything.

Being 26 days in a group environment, they will learn to live together, to respect each other and to help their fellow team members in any situation.

Thanks to 15 year of exploring experience, Mike Horn will teach the Young Explorers the importance of even the smallest details in order to be able to overcome any situation, even the least expected. Mike Horn will also share his knowledge of endurance to teach them how to economize human energy in order to be able to cover long distances over a long period of time.


The Young Explorers will learn in real time about their physical performances and capabilities through the Mayo Clinic tests and evaluations. A few different tests will be conducted amongst which ECG, heart rate, blood pressure, oxygen saturation, oxygen consumption, carbon dioxide production. The Mayo Clinic Team will teach the Young Explorers how to use different devices to conduct these tests, how to collect the data and interpret them. Daily physiological monitoring discussion will bring additional knowledge of their own physiological response to altitude and extreme environmental conditions. Daily symptom monitoring, group discussion, weight measurement and oxygen saturation checking will provide inter-participant comparison data.

For the last 100 years, several expeditions collected data about the Baltoro glacier. As from 1909, photos were taken at certain places in order to document the changes. In spite of the considerable changes of the climate also in the Karakoram area, the glacier geometry only showed minor changes until the 1990’s.  But recent photos taken in 2004 show in several areas significant reduction in thickness of the ice. Comparing these pictures and satellite images with on site observations, will allow our Young Explorers to learn about the actual changes of the Baltoro glacier. They will be witness to the actual status and be able to make relevant conclusions.

Part of the most important people during the trip will be the porters and the Sherpa’s. They will be responsible to carry all the necessary goods for the expedition. Transporting the mess tents, preparing the food, helping to set up the camps, they will be part of the expedition. Interacting and communicating with them, our Young Explorers will learn a lot about their traditional way of life in the villages, the famous stories around the Baltoro massif and the history of climbing in the Karakoram. The porters will also raise the awareness of the Young Explorers about the changes they could have experienced over the last few years in terms of the climate and environment in the Himalaya’s.

Act:

It will be an amazing experience for the Young Explorers to trek in the beautiful Karakoram range, a trek with a specific purpose.
The Pangaea Expedition aims to involve the Young Explorers in different environmental projects but also follow Mike Horn’s philosophy of “leaving nothing but footstep, taking nothing but memories” from the places to be visited. Unfortunately it seems not to be the path followed by each climbing expedition and the result is that the Baltoro area is more and more littered. The Young Explorers will take the opportuntiy to be on site to help cleaning the area and collecting the trash left behind by previous past expeditions. This project will not only take place in base camps but also all along the route, allowing an efficient and sustainable project for the climbing season to come and an example to follow.

The Mayo Clinic test results will be published in several formats and help the research to move ahead. The ascent of an unclimbed 6200m summit will definitely bring new data and yet unknown information about the adaptation of the youth to such high altitudes. The information gathered from this testing and analysis will provide important knowledge about the limits of human performances, human adaptation and aid the development of new technologies that will allow physiologic monitoring in a non-clinical setting. Since many disease pathologies force clinical patients to their physiological limits, knowledge gained from healthy individuals pushing the boundaries of human performances in extreme environments promises to advance the care of patients, especially those with cardiac and/or pulmonary disease as it is believed hypoxia plays a  major role in the disease pathology.

In order to help documenting and raising awareness on the environmental situation in the Himalaya and more generally about the global retracting of the glaciers, the Young Explorers will take relevant observations and data. Amongst other information, they will take photos at the same position as past expeditions. Using remote sensing data, they will detect the equilibrium line altitude and compare it with previous years data. They will also have to detect the amount of supra glacial debris and compare it with previous years’ data to see if the debris covered area has changed over the last 6 years. As since 2004 no data and scientific photos were taken in the area, the information brought back by the Young Explorers will be groundbreaking and very interesting and useful for many different research groups and databases.